Jaipur-Amritsar, India: 16June07

The autorickshaw who supposed to bring us around didin't turn up at the guest house. So we did the sight seeing ourselves happily. Local transporatation such as bus at Jaipur is easy and not that crowded.
We went to the Wind Palace and astrology central, skipped the City Palace. The Wind Palace got the view of the city. The building itslef looked like a bee hive. The astrology centrel is an amazing place for the ancient knowledge. We engaged a guide and got many useful information such as how does a sun dial works.
We proceed to Amber fort and Joghur fort then. Both forts are said to be extensive and interesting, but unfortunately, we spent so much time at Jaigarh Fort that we left no time for Amber Fort.
The dinner before we left for night train to Amritsar was a very delicious Thali.



View from Jaigarh Fort. The city looks blue instead of pink! But this is a town which is 11km away from Jaipur city central.



The magnificient Amber Fort on the rocky mountain.



The train from Jaipur to Amritsar. There were many Sikh in the train as Amritsar is the beting heart of the Sikh religion.



Golden Temple. The golden dome is said to be gilded with 750kg of pure gold.
Four preiest inside the temple keep up a continuous chant in Punjabi from the Sikh holy books and this is broadcast around the temple complex by loudspeakers.

Jaipur, Rajasthan, India: 15June07

Hindi Movie!

We skipped all the sighseeing and merely wondering around the street, eat street food and went to watch a Hindi movie!

The Indian in the cinema who sat beside of us have more interest on us rather than the movie. He was laughing ike hell when he knows that we don't understand Hindi and we were merely watching at the picture. But it was a comedy, so i wasn't that difficult to knows what was going on without the understanding of language. But the intermission of 20 mintues for a movie was kind of "unbelievable" to me. We only get "intermission" for theatre performance!

Jaipur have small city central and yet very very crowded. In the city central itself, everywhere is people, animals and human powered or motorised vehicles. The cycle rickshaw drivers and auto-rickshaw drivers just wouldn't let us off. Every shops that we passed by, it was always "Come to see my shop. See no money."



You could have an elephant ride on the busy and crowded street!



There was some kind of parade or celebration on the street.



This is how busy was the street during normal weekday and "non-peak hour"!

Jaisalmer-Jaipur, Rajasthan, India: 14June07

The pink city is not pink

We returned to Jaisalmer town central in the afternoon and the hot weather and the camel ride had made us really tired.
The train to Jaipur was in the afternoon. When th train passed by or crossing the desert, we have to cose the window or else the sand would fly into the cabin. So the whole compartment was like a sauna. We were perspiring like hell.
At night, i couldn't really sleep as it was so hot that i couldn't stop sweating! We shared the 8 persons cabin with two families. There were 3 children crying and crying. We couldn't lie down to sleep as well and we got middle and lower berth and it was too early to sleep (but we just got really tired) so everyone was sitting at our berth. In the end, we changed berth with the family and finally we could lie down. By this time, we have started to feel the muscle pains from the camel ride.



Jaipur is Rajasthan's pink city, the capital. However it doesn't look pink to me at all. Indeed, this is the most polluted and most crowded place i have ever been in Rajasthan. (i purposedly took this photo in black and white. Anyway, the city is not pink! It look red, so color doesn't matter!)



'Street scene'. People cooking milk to make sweet by the street, just outside of the sweet shop. Indian like ridiculously sweet Indian candy, a kind of sweet made from milk and a lot of sugar! Some taste ok but most taste weirb to me (and most of the non-Indian).

Jaisalmer, Rajasthan, India: 13June07

First Time Desert, the Golden City

This should be a romantic and sentimental journey. My first time to stand at the sand dune, camping out at night, huddling around a tiny fire beneath the shed of stars and listening to the camel drivers' songs.
The dessert is very winding and the sands flying every where in the wind. The people here look older than their actual age, due to the harsh living environment.
Riding a camel is not as romantic or as easy as i thought. The inner thigh and butt got really pain from the ride. i am glad that Mathieu was with me, or else, i won't think i would come to this camel safari and stay at desert with 2 camel drivers. :)
Jaiselmer is Golden City, most structures here are built from the yellow sandstone. However due to over development and without serious conservation efforts, this Golden city is now one of the world's most endangered monuments. Unlike the well preserved Jophur Fort, Jasalmer Fort look like a mess with contructions all around both inside and outside of the Fort.
Like any other Indian city, animals are every where in the town but besides from cow, they are camels and donkeys here. Indian is really incredible. They can live in peace with animals, sharing their living quarter with the animals. Back home, living with animals is unhygiene. In Malaysia, the government cull dogs while in Singapore, the government cull cats and birds. i wonder, are development and 'civilisation' making us lost something valueable in our human nature?



Behind is the wind turbines that kind of thing to generate electricity.



The sunset at the desert. It is impossible to sleep at the sand dune as the wind was so strong that we got sand all over our body, We slept on this platform in the desert and when we woke up in the morning, we was covered with a layer of sand.



The sun rise at the desert.



One of the camel drivers. He was preparing our food: dal (lentils) fried, rice and chapati.



On the camel.



Hey hey... The sand dune.



One of the havelis, buidling built by wealthy merchant. The sand stone building has incerdibly fine scupltures.



The fort. About 25% of the old city's population rsides within the fort walls.



The town itself is like a mirage in the middle of a barren desertscape.



The local main market area.

Jodhpur-Jaisalmer, Rajasthan, India: 12June07

The Majestic Fort

We went to the well maintained and well explained Majestic Fort or Meherangarh. I always prefer to explore a place at my own pace by walk. The audio tour allowed us to wander around the fort at our leisure and taking a fix of information when we feel like to.

The disaster (there is at least one for everyday) of the day was we spent 2 hours at the train station reservation office (after walked under the scorching sun for 30 minutes with our full backpack), trying to sort out our train tickets. The queue wasn't long, but the people always cut queue and bought another 4 or 5 more tickets for others who aren't in the queue. Most Indian don't have the habit to queue up.

When we finally done with the logistic, we was cramped into the hot and the usual ridiculously crowded "express" bus to Jaisalmer. Indian can easily drives you crazy with their way of doing things. Most of the time, traveling with a partner really make the whole situation to be different. One is more acceptable to the situation and more capable to treat things like jokes.

In time, i feel a bit sorry for Math. He has to handle the bargaining with rickshaw driver himself. i always tend to be a parasite when i have someone i can depend on. I don't bargain that much for almost everything as having a partner to travel with has already kept my cost down. However Math has a tighter budget than me. He probably can do it in a cheaper way without me, such as living in an Indian dorm and eat at the real dirt cheap Indian eatery. i won't mind to pay some extra to the Indian, well, i can treat it as help boosting the country's economy. I won't mind to pay the price different of what Math wanted to pay and what we were quoted too. But i know, this suggestion would never work as it probably will hurt a man's pride. So i have never suggested this to him before (i hope he never read my blog to learn about this too). :)



This numerous tragic tiny hand prints are near to the Lohapol, the Iron Gate. They are the sati marks of Maharaja Man Singh's widows, who threw themselves upon his funeral pyre.
It is always not easy to be an Indian woman in India, even for now.



The view from the 124m-high hill of Mahenrangarh.



One of the splendid rooms in the fort.



Near to the main entrance of Mahenrangarh, a child was dancing while the musician was playing the traditional musical instrument.

Udaipur-Jodhpur, Rajasthan, India: 11June07

The City for Krishna

Jophur is dry and hot. My nose started to bleed almost immediately upon arrival.
The bus arrived in the late afternoon, so we didn't have much time to explore. We went to the market and shopped for fruits and 'looked' at different kind of spices.
The market or bazaar is nice. They sell fruits, vege, garments and spice. They are donkeys on the road.
We have get used to drink tea by the small stall at the road side. It even doesn't bother me as much now even if a bull shit is right in front of the stall.
i like this blue city. This is a place where people really lead a life and the shops or bazaars aren't just there to cater tourists. They are there to serve the needs of local people and may at the same time for tourists.
i think if one could find at least one partner, then coming to India during this hot summer is not that bad after all. May be provided both could stand the heat. It is hot, but you see more local than tourists and you almost get cheaper for everything. At least, in India, they don't have tourists menu like in Vietnam. You pay the same as local if you eat in restaurant.



Scene on the way from Udaipur to Jophur.



Jodhpur is at its bluest in the old city. Traditionally, blue signified the home of a Brahmin, but non-Brahmins have got in on the act too.



Clock Tower and Market, the old city's commercial heart.

Udaipur, Rajasthan, India: 10June07

The child beggar threw stones to me!

The weather at Udaiphur was nice. It was colder than any other places in India that i have been , so far, and yet drier. So we didn't perspiring like hell.
The town area or toursit area itself wasn't as large. We went to the palace, museum, hindu temple and put an end of the day by the very energetic Rajasthani dance and music.
The room we got was windy and facing to the lake. It was indeed really a nice good place for honeymoon.
The not so nice experience was probably that a young beggar snatched my mango drink empty tetra-pack, thinking that it was a full drink. When he found that it was just rubbish, he threw stones at me! i was shocked. He was just may be 3 or 4 years old and he already started to beg and snatch things. What would he do when he grows up?
For those kids from normal family, how do they feel and think to see young beggars around their age struggling for a living? How does the parents explain to their children?



Udaipur is said to be the "white" city.



Lake Pichola and the city centre.



The usual India scene, people washing openly. Not every house has their own water supply.

Bombay-Ahmadabad-Udaipur: 9June07

i think you probably could only see thousands of men washing clothes together in India. We took a train to go to a dhoby ghat and witnesses the incredible scene. Then we went to the mosque in the middle of the sea (or rubbish? the causeway was surrounded by rubbish). You could only access to the mosque during low tide while the causeway link the land to the mosque was submerged during high tide.

We took a sitting day train to Ahmadabad to change to Udaipur. The episode of the day was Matt went down the train to buy newspaper. The train moved and i thought he would be some where in other cabin. After half an hour, when more people boarded the train, i was kind of panicked. He got everything with me and if he missed the train, it would be very very bad. The people sat around me obviously think i am his wife and they started to look at me with a kind of sympathy. Before i started to cry (after days of reliances with Matt and Vivien, i got very much meek now), Matt just appeared again in front of me. i was relieved and it was definitely not easy for me to carry 2 person's backpacks!

Cost: 202 Rs



Mahalaxmi Dhobi Ghat. According to Lonely Planet, 5000 men are working here. They use rows of open-air troughs to beat the dirt out of the housands of kilograms of soiled clothes brought from all over the city each day. It was indeed an amazing sight.



Haji Ali's Mosque. This whitewashed mosque is in the middle of Arabian Sea. It becomes an island during high tide but is accessible at the other times via the concrete causeway lined with beggars. The legend says the Muslim saint Haji Ali died while on a pilgrimage to Mecca and his casket miraculously floated back to Mumbai and landed at this spot. Then the devotees built this mosque which contains His tomb.



The palace on Jamandir Island of placid lake Pichola. Udairpur is called white city as most of the buildings are in white color. It is Rajasthan's most romantic city and a really good place for honeymoon. We got a room right facing to the lake and palace for off season price at Rs 200. A room like this would cost Rs 500-800 during peak period.